28 April 2026

Nazare

Today's trip had us heading to the bus station in Coimbra to travel to Nazare. It seems like the bus network is pretty extensive here. On our route we passed 2 smaller towns and an area that had been recently devastated by a severe storm. 

We arrived in Nazare and a short walk got us to our hotel, right off the beach! My roommate and I had an ocean view from the end of our balcony.
I've been slightly obsessed with Nazare since watching the HBO documentary series '100 Foot Wave' about surfer Gerry McNamara and his search for the world's largest wave. Due to a series of geographical events happening all in this place the winter waves can reach astronomical heights. The town itself is a small fishing village but exceptionally picturesque. It also used to be a major pilgrimage site until Fatima knocked it off the throne. 
After a quick steak & chimichurri lunch and some time dipping my feet in the water, the group met to do a tour up to the upper part of the village. There is a funicular, thank goodness, because the cliff is steep! 
The upper village has a museum, small chapel that was built for the pilgrimage and the usual tourist booths. A path takes us down to the lighthouse point, past a gate welcoming us to the home of the world's biggest wave
and a statue of a deer-headed surfer
The lighthouse/fort includes a museum of surfer boards, some info on the reason for the big wave formations and stairs to the top for a vide of the ocean. We're at the level of the seagulls here and right now the water is calm and quiet. During big wave season, the waves are higher than the lighthouse!
It's a remarkable place that has a unique energy to it in the off season. It becomes a mad house during surf season. 

I took too many photos so I had to get back to my hotel to recharge, stopping to pick up a souvenir. From the hotel I walked to the dried fish open air museum down the beach. Several fishing boats are pulled up on the sand with a plaque describing what they are. Next to it are racks of fish and octopus being dried, as well as women sitting at tables with dried wares ready to sell. Quite artistic in their display. 
For the rest of the afternoon, I took advantage of our balcony to sit and recharge my phone and self with the cool ocean breeze.

In the evening, we had a group dinner at a restaurant down the street with an ocean view. We were the only ones in the place! I brought the wine that I was given at my Lisbon hotel to share. It turned out to be an amazing wine! 
Melissa and I shared a grilled fresh caught sea bass with salad and potatoes.
Dinner was festive with good conversation, drinking and eating and we finally left, with the wait staff staring us down. 

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