Last day in Iceland

When I booked this trip, I gave myself one day at the end of explore Reykjavik and I'm glad I did. 

I had a more relaxing morning, leisurely breakfast, arranged airport transfer for tomorrow and figured out the plan for the day.

I decided to walk up to the Perlan first, followed by a suggestion from the hotel clerk to check out the National Gallery. 

The Perlan is about 30 min walk from the hotel, but the day is clear and beautiful. It has several experiences that capture phenomena unique fo Iceland, such as a n Aurora show, Volcano video, Ice cave and an immersive exhibit on glaciers. 

There is also an observation deck where we can get 360 views of the surrounding area, and today we can see for miles! There is also a nice restaurant and I decided to have my main meal for lunch. I had the plokkfiskur, a shepherds pie type dish but with fish. It's quite delicious served with rye bread and butter and a substantial portion that I can't quite finish. 

From here I walk to the National Gallery. Turns out it is a modern art museum, not an exhibit on the Icelandic settlement - what I wanted is the National Museum. Still there were some nice artists on display.

The National Museum is a little confusing to get to because it's next to a roundabout. Once in, they have a very comprehensive exhibit on the settlement of Iceland from the beginning of human habitation to rule by Norway and Denmark to modern times. There was more here than I had time to explore in detail. The stairwell has this beautiful stained glass.

As I leave, it's time to go back to the hotel, rest my feet, charge my phone and figure out the plan for this evening. I have a strong hankering for ice cream. 

In early evening, I strolled a bit around the street the hotel is on (which is the main shopping street) and end up at Valdi's for a double scoop cone with Ferrero Rocher and Strawberry. It was the perfect dinner treat. 

Tomorrow is an early day to catch the airport bus. 

Geysers, one more waterfall and Sky Lagoon

Yesterday was a long day and I forgot to post. This is our last day together as a group and it's still raining from last night. 

We start by heading to the Geysir area. There was an original water spout called Geysir by the locals and it gave its name to all other similar water features such as the ones in Yellowstone. In fact this area has similar characteristics to Yellowstone with small hot springs surrounded by algae. While the original Geysir appears to be dormant, there is one Strokkur, which goes off to varying degrees every 10 minutes or so. 

 

Our next stop continues on the Golden Circle that takes many people from Reykjavik to these top sites and so it's more crowded than when we were in other parts of the country. 

Gullfoss is a spectacular waterfall that has multiple layers. Paths take you right up to the top edge of the falls, as well as to the cliff above. Annie does that, while the rest of us head carefully along the lower path.

The rain is continuing so it's hard to tell when we're splashed by the mist from the falls except that it comes at us sideways. The roar of these falls intense.

The final official stop of the day is the Sky Lagoon. Originally we had the Blue Lagoon on our itinerary but because of the active volcano nearby, it had been closed and so our plans were changed. This Lagoon is newer and fancier. We have the lagoon experience as well as their 7 step 'ritual'. We wanted the lockers where we change into swim suits, then rinse off before heading to the outdoor lagoon. The air temp is quite chilly and a bit shocking before we quickly get comfortable in the warm lagoon with the infinity edge. I had brought my waterproof phone case so took pictures in the lagoon. There is a swim up bar for drinks and several areas with underwater benches. 

The ritual includes several different cold and warm plunges, saunas, steam rooms and a salt scrub. After the ritual, we run back into the lagoon for a bit until we need to shower, change and get back to reality. 

When we get back to Reykjavik, everyone decides they want a free afternoon rather than the city tour. We'll all meet up for dinner at a steakhouse that Kristian has booked. 

We have a lovely evening sharing our thoughts on the trip, discussing our next plans and giving everyone hugs all around. 

Glaciers, waterfalls and puffins!

The breakfast at the Foss Hotel is wonderful and a great start to the day. 

We are on our way to get up close and personal with a glacier, Svinefellsjokull. It's a short walk up a gravelly path from the parking. Kristian planned the timing so we would be there early before the crowds. There were just a handful of people there. At one point, he asked us to sit and be quiet for several minutes. We could hear the water flowing off the glacier and some cracking noises. There were no other human sounds. I closed my eyes for a bit and felt the sounds of the glacier all around us. As we left, more and more people are heading out from the parking. 

We continued our drive past some barren lava landscapes, some from eruptions hundreds of years ago and with moss growing on it that were as old. 

We pass a random beautiful waterfall and pull over briefly to get pictures as we make our way along the south coast.

We stopped at Vatnajokults Visitor Center which has some artifacts about old glacier expeditions and an interesting building with a live roof you can walk on for a view of another nearby falls. They also have a gift shop and I couldn't help but purchase a shawl knitting kit.

For lunch we stopped in Vik at a Kronan store that has a nice cafe. I had a pretzel croissant ham and cheese (reminiscent of home and Rockenwagner). The shop is full of outdoor clothing and souvenirs. 

After lunch we head to Reynasfjoru or Black Beach. We are warned by Kristian and signs everywhere about the sneaker waves in this area. The black sand is from lava of course and the basalt columns are also formed from lava but the miracle of this area is the large flocks of pufflings that are practicing flying on preparation for their migration out to sea in a few weeks. The nests are on the basalt cliffs and they are covered with puffin families! Swarms of them fly off and land back. 

Kristian told us that the elves get insulted by people clamoring all over the columns to take pictures and that we need to thank the elves for allowing us to be here so I placed my hand on a column and did a quick thank you. 

Shortly after, I looked out to the water, past a flock of birds on the ocean and thought I saw a spout! A few minutes later, indeed there is a spout and the back of a small humpback! We watch the whale as it patrols the near shore area, probably to hunt the same food the birds are looking for. Amazing! 

As if that experience isn't enough, our next stop is just up the coast at Dyrholey cliffs. Here there are puffin nests so close to where we can stand that we almost can reach out to touch them, and they are not at all afraid of us. Just as at Black Beach, the pufflings are practicing flying and we can see some parents coaxing their offspring out. 

An absolutely remarkable visit! 

We are ending our day with two very photogenic waterfalls. The first one, Skogafoss, has a path up to the top, which we don't do, but you can get right up to the base! The spray of the falls camouflages the fact that it has started to rain quite hard! We've lucked out up to now in that rain has mostly stopped whenever we're out but our luck has run out. 

Our last stop is Seljalandfoss which has a path to go behind the waterfall. The path is a little tricky in spots and it's raining still but the view behind the falls is great! 

Nearby are two smaller falls, making this a great falls viewing stop. 

Finally we head to our hotel in Hella where we are joined by several massive tour buses for our buffet dinner. The hotel has a hot tub and sauna but I'm calling it a night. 

Waterfalls and glaciers

Today we are heading into south Iceland. Our route takes us through what I call 'waterfall alley'. The terrain has become hilly again and particularly with the rain of the last day, every stream and creek is running. We stopped at two particularly beautiful ones. 

At the second one, Claudia chose to scatter some of her husband's ashes at the site. A few ravens flew over us at the moment and it felt auspicious. 

After getting our fill of beautiful waterfalls we did a slight detour to view an outdoor art exhibit in the fishing village of Djupivogur by Sigurdur Gudmondson, consisting of 34 granite eggs based on birds of the area. Really unique way to add interest to an industrial looking area.

We then took some time in the town to get some refreshment, use toilets and stroll around. 

We next stopped at a lookout point where the waves of the Atlantic Ocean are particularly dramatic and fierce. The variety of landscapes we've seen in this tiny country is astounding. 

For lunch we stopped to picnic on some local delicacies. They include local flat breads, smoked lamb deli meats, lamb's head pate, skyr and the infamous fermented shark. It has a strong ammonia odor and is meant to be chased by a shot of the local liquor, Black Death. I made myself a small sandwich of the deli meats and breads, skipped the shark (blech) but had a shot of the liquor. 

After a drive, passing flocks of whooper swans and more sheep, we reach Glacier Lagoon. The largest glacier in Europe calves small icebergs here that then head out to sea. We get into an amphibious boat that takes us out into the water to get closer to them. The colours vary from white and black (from lava), to blue! 

On the ocean side of the lagoon is a black sand beach where the bergs head out to sea, but many of them end up on the beach. The clear ice contrasts with the black sand to look like diamonds. The ice shapes are unique from the erosion of waves. 

Our hotel for the night is a short distance away, Fosshotel, situated against a forested hillside with another beautiful waterfall next door and sheep grazing outside. 

Dinner at the hotel is lamb with several sauces and brown rice followed by frozen skyr with crumble and berries for dessert. I added a cocktail of rye, birch schnapps and honey with a glacier ice cube. 

Exploring east Iceland

We headed out from the hotel in Husavik for our first stop, the mud pots and fumeroles at Hverir. This is sort of like a mini Yellowstone without the crowds. The smell of sulfur is intense, but we also smell sulfur in some hotel hot water supplies when they get their water from hot springs. The surrounding area also has a desert barrenness to it that Yellowstone doesn't have, almost like we're on another planet. 

Before leaving this geothermally active area, we visit the Viti Crater at Krafla. The crater was formed from a volcanic explosion in the 1720s. Since then the crater has filled with water from a hot spring source underneath as well as snow melt. 

Nearby is a power plant which generates electricity from this geothermal activity. This plant is the oldest in Iceland.

Our next stop is Dimmuborgir lava field. This is a highly unusual formation of lava that somewhat resembles the hoodoos in Bryce Canyon except made from lava rock. The legend is that Iceland's Christmas trolls live here in the off season. Quite a few of the formations do have a certain dwelling like appearance.

The vegetation in the area are all native species and we find a few ripe wild blueberries that are quite tasty. 

Troll City is crowded with bus tourists so we headed to Skutusdagigar for a quick lunch (pizza for me) before heading out to the attraction here, which are pseudo-craters. They are not actual volcanic craters although they are formed from different lava activity. The view from the tops of Lake Myvatn are quite beautiful and we can see for miles. 

On our way to our hotel, it starts to rain. We've been lucky in that the rain has mostly caught us on the road rather than at an attraction. Along the way, we pull over at Ryukandafoss waterfall. There is a steep-ish climb to a viewing point at the base of the falls. This is a really spectacular one. We haven't seen many falls in north Iceland but now in the east, we are getting the kind of terrain that forms them. There are a few beautiful falls just along this stretch of highway

Tonight our hotel is in Egilsstadir along Lagerfljot lake. It's rumored that Nessie's cousin survived the meteor that killed the dinosaurs and lives in this lake. 

The room is nicely furnished. Dinner at the hotel was ribeye with potatoes and veggies with chocolate caramel cake. The meal was delicious but service exceptionally slow. 

Blockbuster day!

Today started off with cold but clear skies and beautiful clouds. After breakfast, we hit the road, making a few scenic stops along the way, the first one at the Stadaebjorg Basalt Columns in Hofsus. Really beautiful with the skies and clear waters. 

We next spent some time in Stadaefjordur village, where there was a run on herring in the early 1900s but collapsed and now has the herring museum. I didn't go into the museum but they have some outdoor exhibits and art work commemorating this. The waters here are also home to many sea birds. 

For lunch we stop at Hauganes at the restaurant next to the whale watching boat. I had the fish soup which was delicious! 

The whale watching boat was docked nearby. We put on some red jumpers/floatation suits (which kept us warm as well), shoved our cameras, hats, and other paraphernalia in the giant pockets and boarded our boat. Hauganes is located on the shores of Iceland's longest fjord, Eijafyordur. We're expecting to see humpbacks as they are quite common here in summer feeding season.

Shortly after we left, we immediately spotted some. The whale guide yells out location according to clock hands and distance. The boat captain often heads to the location to get closer. It was thrilling to see them blow air and surface, flashing their tail but most exciting was when one of them came up right next to our boat and I was lucky enough to be in the right place with phone camera ready. I also got several tail flashes with the telephoto on my DSLR.

The whale guide told us they had seen a blue whale in recent days so the hunt was on. They recognized the spouting at a distance and our boat as well as others started converging to the spot. Every time a spouting happened, every boat narrowed their location. Finally, they came up right near us, 2 of them, blowing air and surfacing, with their very long backs gliding gently past us. Blue whales don't flash their tails so I can easily imagine ancient sea farers thinking they had seen a giant sea monster! It was such a thrill! After this, we were treated to coffee or cocoa and a cinnamon cookie. Some who wanted could grab a rod and reel and fish for cod! Annie from our group got 2 or 3! They are catch and release after the fisherperson got their picture with their prize.

From Hauganes, we headed to Godafoss, a famous waterfall that resembled a small Niagara to me. This was not as exciting as the several waterfalls we saw our first day out, that spring out of natural springs and creeks. This one more closely resembled the kinds of waterfalls we see in North America, yet still beautiful.

Before heading to our hotel, we stopped at Narfastadir farm & guest house for an Icelandic buffet. We had a nice variety of appetizers and main dishes as well as banana cake with cream for dessert. Everything was well done. 

I was exhausted by the time dinner was over and slept all the way to the hotel in Husavik. 

All in all a brilliant day!

Driving adventure & turf houses

Today's journey started a little later than yesterday and since I have my alarm fixed, went more smoothly.

It's rainy this morning but Kristian had figured that into our plans and we covered a bunch of activities yesterday afternoon to take advantage of the good weather. We set off after a hearty breakfast past beautiful rolling green hills, sheep, horses and cows in the pastures. 

We made a short stop at the small fishing village Stykkisholmur which has a small marina, a little red lighthouse up on a hill and some traditional houses. I found a small craft shop that had hand dyed wool from a local woman and bought a skein.

Part of our journey was on another gravel road but part way into it, Kristian discovered we had a flat tire. We were parked near a farm house and while Sue, Fred and Kristian tried dealing with the lug nuts, Claudia and Frances headed to the house to see if they could help. Luckily for us, the farmer, Ole, had the right tools and know how. As we were working on the van, another vehicle pulled up behind us with their own flat tire! Sue went to help them but once our vehicle was fixed we had to move along. Ole was still working on their vehicle when we left. 

We stopped for lunch at a place I'd call a diner. They had burgers, fries and other quick meals. I tried their cheeseburger although it was unexceptionable. During lunch, Kristian had the tire fixed and we were on our way shortly after. 

The main attraction for us today was the Glaembar Farm & Museum featuring traditional Icelandic turf houses. This particular complex had quite a palatial turf house with multiple rooms, separate smithy room, dairy storage, guest rooms, pantry and main living area/bedroom. Each room was well laid out with furnishings, small artifacts and other touches of daily life. The ceilings are quite low so some of us got a few knocks on the head! The area is part of a dry fjord that has been filled in over many years due to silt but the name has stuck. 

icelanders used this type of housing into the early 1900 due to lack of natural resources and this particular complex was abandoned to the state in the 1930s.

Our stop for the night is at a quaint hotel Tindastoll in Saurdarkur. The rooms are rustic with lovely touches and a hot tub outside.

Dinner in the onsite restaurant is wolf fish, veggies and roast potatoes. Dessert is lava cake and ice cream, which they called 'fire and Ice'.

Because it is Judy's birthday, we all got a shot of their Icelandic liqueur Black Death, the high alcohol national liquor with an herbal taste and strong kick. 

Beginning our exploration of Iceland

Today got off to an inauspicious start as I didn't set my alarm properly, slept in, was woken by the hotel calling me on behalf of the group and me getting ready, out the door and fast walking to the van in 15 minutes. 🥵

Once we were on the road, our first stop is Thingvellir. This is the location where the N. American and Eurasian tectonic plates meet and for Icelandic history, place where the Viking parliament met. It was also a filming location in Game of Thrones.

The park has a paved walk way with several lookout points. The area is a large rift valley where the two plates meet with a large lake now. Along the paths are many tiny pretty flowers, moss and lichen. In general, Icelandic flora are very low lying. 

From here we head out eventually getting on a gravel road that will take us close to a couple of glaciers. The terrain around us becomes very rocky and barren. All along the roads we took today are sheep, cows and horses grazing. On this road, we see no life at all. At the glacier lookout, it's very windy and cold. This is just the front edge of the glacier, the rest of it is gigantic as we saw later on our drive.

Once we are off the gravel road, we head to Snaefellnes peninsula. Our first stop there is a spot where we can see several waterfalls. The views are spectacular and Kristian expains to us that these are glacier fed waterfalls. 

We later see dozens of falls along the road. They all appear to spring out of nowhere, there's no river feeding them. 

Leaving the falls area, we make a brief stop at a hot spring that provides hot water to much of this area along pipes that we will occasionally see along the road. Our lunch stop today is a farm/campground/cafe where they serve soup made from their own produce. Today's was mushroom, tomato or carrot. We self served and could choose any of a combo. 

After lunch, we stop at a photo spot for a view of Church Mountain as well as a brief stop with a local artist who works under the name Liston. He works in paint and sculpture. Every scenic stop today is better than the last. The view is so unique but parts of it remind me of a colder Southwest US, or areas of Easter Island or the desert around Las Vegas. 

Our final stop of the day is at the Bardur Snaefellnes statue and the Arnarstapi Cliff Site. The statue represents the local mythical guardian figure and the sculpture reminds me of Inukshuk monuments.

From here is a short walk to the cliff site with a stunning view of the ocean, cliff dwelling fulmar bird colonies and a vast expansive sky.

This is our last stop and we head to the hotel for the night where dinner in the restaurant is a giant lamb shank, mashed potatoes and tiramisu for dessert. Delicious!