13 August 2024

Waterfalls and glaciers

Today we are heading into south Iceland. Our route takes us through what I call 'waterfall alley'. The terrain has become hilly again and particularly with the rain of the last day, every stream and creek is running. We stopped at two particularly beautiful ones. 
At the second one, Claudia chose to scatter some of her husband's ashes at the site. A few ravens flew over us at the moment and it felt auspicious. 

After getting our fill of beautiful waterfalls we did a slight detour to view an outdoor art exhibit in the fishing village of Djupivogur by Sigurdur Gudmondson, consisting of 34 granite eggs based on birds of the area. Really unique way to add interest to an industrial looking area.
We then took some time in the town to get some refreshment, use toilets and stroll around. 

We next stopped at a lookout point where the waves of the Atlantic Ocean are particularly dramatic and fierce. The variety of landscapes we've seen in this tiny country is astounding. 
For lunch we stopped to picnic on some local delicacies. They include local flat breads, smoked lamb deli meats, lamb's head pate, skyr and the infamous fermented shark. It has a strong ammonia odor and is meant to be chased by a shot of the local liquor, Black Death. I made myself a small sandwich of the deli meats and breads, skipped the shark (blech) but had a shot of the liquor. 
After a drive, passing flocks of whooper swans and more sheep, we reach Glacier Lagoon. The largest glacier in Europe calves small icebergs here that then head out to sea. We get into an amphibious boat that takes us out into the water to get closer to them. The colours vary from white and black (from lava), to blue! 
On the ocean side of the lagoon is a black sand beach where the bergs head out to sea, but many of them end up on the beach. The clear ice contrasts with the black sand to look like diamonds. The ice shapes are unique from the erosion of waves. 
Our hotel for the night is a short distance away, Fosshotel, situated against a forested hillside with another beautiful waterfall next door and sheep grazing outside. 
Dinner at the hotel is lamb with several sauces and brown rice followed by frozen skyr with crumble and berries for dessert. I added a cocktail of rye, birch schnapps and honey with a glacier ice cube. 

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